NIEBLA
JUNE 16, 2004

It has been very quiet around the complex this week.  We have some construction work going on, but little else.  We decided to take an excursion to Niebla.  I was not expecting much from this little town, but we were ready for something, so off we went.  This turned out to be a much more interesting visit that I expected. 

The little town of Niebla is situated close to Huelva, the biggest city around where we are.  The main part of the town in within the ancient walls, and there are a few old churches and squares to be seen.  But, by far and away, the most interesting thing to visit in the town is the old castle. 

The old castle is well maintained and there is an interesting tour with signposts in English as well as Spanish.  We were able to walk around the ramparts and view the river Tinto and surrounding countryside.  We also saw the falconry, the old well, the barbacana, the ancient weaponry, the storehouse, the old kitchen, etc. 

By far and away the most interesting display is kept underground in the dungeons.  There we found an extensive collection of instruments of torture with elaborate written descriptions of how they were used and the painful results of being subjected to each item.  The title of the display is “Feudal Justice”.  There were 10 rooms of tortuous equipment, including several versions of the rack, facemasks, stocks, tongs, pliers, beds of nails, guillotines, balls and chains, and wheels.  The written description of each item told, in detail, why it was prescribed, how it was used, what the resulting injuries were, and how gangrene or death set in after use.  It all sounded extremely gory and not something I would want to experience at all.  This display must be a big hit with the school kids, because it is so gory and there were also several skeletons hanging around to make it even more interesting.

We ended up spending almost the whole afternoon touring the castle, which also included displays of everyday life for the royalty, a lady’s bedroom, a kitchen, the jousting court, etc.  There was also a room dedicated to Ellen Mary Whishaw, an Englishwoman who recognized the importance of preserving the castle and fortress and took steps to ensure it’s preservation.

This was one of the more authentic seeming medieval castles I have visited so far.

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