Page 8     Orvieto, Missed the last Tram down, Wrong turn, Locked out

MAY 27, 2001, SUNDAY

Sunday we left Todi and had a very nice, easy ride along a lake to Orvieto.  In Scalo Orvieto (Lower Orvieto) we checked into a hotel and took our shower and watched the tv coverage of the Giro, then headed out to see the town. 

The main town of Orvieto sits 750 feet above Scalo Orvieto, on a red rock cliff.  There was a little tram that would take you up the cliff, and bus service into the main part of town from where the tram let you off.  However, the tram only runs until 8:30pm, and we planned to have dinner up there, and as Don was buying the tickets I asked him how we would get down.  He said we would worry about it when the time came.


So, we have been to a lot of towns and seen hundreds of churches now, but I must say, the church in Orvieto is worth a visit.  The entire front of the church is covered in colorful mosaics and intricate carvings.  It is quite beautiful.


 

We walked around the town, enjoying the view from several points around the city, and then stopped at an outdoor restaurant for dinner.  As we sat down two couples at another table began to chat with us and we ended up moving to the table next to theirs.  They were from St. Louis and we had fun talking about bicycling, St. Louis, current US news, home exchanging, raising kids.  The evening just passed by in a flash, and before we knew it it was 10:30.

We walked over to the bus stop, on the theory that they must make some provision for getting all the touristas down the hill.  While we were there we started talking to an interesting old German fellow who had been a prisoner of war in Ohio during the Second World War.  The bus schedule confirmed that the last bus from that stop was at 8:30, and he said one of his party had walked down the hill (a 4 k walk) to get a car, and he offered us a ride too.  But, we decided to check out other alternatives.  We strolled down to the tramway, still looking for a way down.  There we saw some people waiting at a bus stop, and when we asked, they said that it was a little known fact, but there was one bus an hour until midnight.  There was no printed schedule for this. They said the next one was due in about 20 minutes.  So we decided to wait, because we didnt want to walk on the dark, winding 4k road.  Sure enough, a bus did come and it did take us down to our hotel.

MONDAY, May 28

We wanted to start off the bike ride early today, because it was going to be hot.  We got up, checked out of our hotel and went to the grocery store for food.  We ate breakfast in the park and planned our route for the day.  We would go to Allerona, and then cut across the river and up to the mountain ridge, and on to Citta di Pieve.  This entailed quite a bit of climbing, up to 1900 feet, then down some, and then back up to 1600 feet.  The route is designated scenic.

 

Well, the first thing we did was ride our bikes out through Scalo Allerona, and up the mountain towards Allerona.  After we had been climbing for about 2 miles, I stopped for a rest and thought I would check our progress.  Surprise!! We wanted to turn off at Lower Allerona and head up the mountain on the other side of the river.  So we rode back down the mountain, crossed the river and headed up again.

The ride was pretty, but the climb was challenging.  We passed through the cute town of Sala, and went up a really steep part, stopping for lunch on a cliff over a vineyard.  Finally hit the summit at about 2pm.  It was very sunny and hot.


Then we headed down, down, down.  On the way down we passed the walled town of Valico di Monte Nibbio.  I knew Don would want to go into this town, because it is a quaint little village, up a steep hill on cobblestones on a narrow road.  His favorite!  So, I stopped, parked my bike and trailer in a nice space behind a park bench, and waited.  Pretty soon Don came along and parked his bike and trailer next to mine, and then sat down with me to enjoy the view and the shade.  We were just getting ready to leave when a woman drove up in her car, and in Italian gestures and intonations, told us that she wanted to park where we had our bikes parked and would we move.  Don took an immediate dislike to her, and so he gave her that good old Italian gesture, throw up your hands in the air, what can I do, its out of my hands.  She didnt like this, and tried to edge her car up next to our bikes anyway, but there just wasnt room.  There were 5 pay spots just 10 feet away, but she wasnt having that.  She wanted the nice, shady, free spot. 

Finally she drove off in a huff, muttering Italian somethings at us out her window.  Shortly after this encounter, we got on our bikes and teetered along the cobblestoned street up the hill, and then around the corner.  Who should be coming around the blind corner, just as I was negotiating my bike around that same corner, and heading down a steep, bumpy road?  You guessed it!  Parking lady.  Boy was she mad!  She had parked way down the hill, and was huffing and puffing up, just in time for me to run right into her.  Luckily I was able to take evasive action, and I didnt bump into her.

By the time we got to the bottom of the mountain it was 3pm and very hot.  We decided to call it a day and checked into a nearby hotel in the town of Fabro.  Our shower felt good and we watched the Giro coverage. While I watched the news Don did some more laundry.  I was sitting on the bed, minding my own business, watching the news on tv and playing Monopoly, when I heard Don sweetly call me, Geralynn, oh Geralynn.  I called back, just as sweetly, Yes dear?   No answer.  Then I heard, in a more demanding voice, Geralynn!  What do you want?  I grumpily called back.  Still no answer.  Then there was a shrill whistle, and I thought, Gee!  Is he pushy or what!  I have to get up and go to him.  So I got up and went to the bathroom, where he was washing his clothes.  No Don.  I look in the hall.  No Don.  Then I heard a very loud Wheeeet, which means, You had better get your butt over here NOW! and I still couldnt find him.  I looked all around the bedroom, in the bathroom, shower, out in the hall again.  I called out one more time, Don, where are you?  I hear you, but I cant find you!  Well, he had gone out on the balcony to hang his clothes to dry, and the door had locked automatically behind him.  He was stuck out there, with no way to get off or back into the hotel.

After I rescued him from that fiasco, we decided we needed some wine and we went to the grocery for supplies.  When we got back our room was very warm, so we opened the big window to get a breeze and I went down to the desk for ice.  No ice, the bar doesnt open until June.  By the time I got back, Don was in a fit.  There were wasps buzzing all around our open window, trying to come in.  Don was waving them out as fast as he could.  We closed the metal shutters, but then it was just too hot.  Since there is a big sign advertising the air conditioning, we went down to the desk and asked how to turn on the air conditioning in our room.  Very sorry.  No air conditioning until June., was the reply.  We tried to tell the clerk our room was just too hot and we couldnt open the window because of the wasps and we needed the air conditioning, but she just kept repeating, not until June.  We argued that June is just a few days away, and wouldnt she flip the switch now?  No, in June.  Finally Don made her come up into our room and opened the shutter and showed her the wasps flying in, so she let us change rooms.  There we could open the window, and that helped a bit.  This was turning out to be a day of predicaments.

Also, the restaurant didnt open until June, so we went across the street and had dinner on a nice outdoor patio.  My steak was excellent.  Don wanted the shish-kebab, but we didnt know which item on the menu to say. After trying to describe to the waitress the shish kebab we had seen cooking on the grill, by stabbing imaginary chunks of meat on a finger, we saw her eyes light up and thought we had made a clear order.  Too bad Dons shish kebab turned out to be a lamb steak.  Oh, well.  I shared my nice fillet mignon with Don.

We just were not having a lucky day, so we went to bed.  I woke up at 2:30, sure that I had heard someone tampering with our bike trailers, which were parked in front of the hotel.  I spent the next two hours figuring out the best way to file the theft report with the Italian police, and then fell sound asleep at about 4:30am.

At about 4:40am Don woke up and decided he would get the KY jelly handy for when I awakened.  He quietly went to his duffel bag to get it.  Not there.  He unzipped each compartment, looking carefully, trying not to wake me with his rustlings.  Then he did the same with my duffel bag, again searching each compartment.  Then he looked through my bike bag, then his bike bag.  Now he was getting grouchy about this, and determined to find it.  He got dressed and went downstairs and out into the front yard of the hotel and looked through both of our bike trailers (still there and untouched, in spite of my imaginings).  He still couldnt find it!  He went back up the stairs to return to our room.  Oops!  He had locked himself out of the hotel.  He had to wake up the hotel night clerk at 5:15am to let him in.

Back in our room again, Geralynn still snoozing away, he went through both of our duffel bags again, went through all of the drawers in the room, checked everywhere in the bathroom, and finally, at about 6:30 he was so mad, he woke me up to ask where it was.  I didnt know either, and looked around a bit, but couldnt find it.  He grumpily said it was time for me to get up anyway, and even more grumpily unplugged the tv (there was only one outlet in the whole room) to make coffee.

After coffee and breakfast we packed up and got ready to leave.  As I was picking up the last few items, that I stuff into my trailer, around the sides of my duffel, what did I find, hiding under the bag of laundry detergent?  Yep!  The KY jelly.

We decided Fabro was not a good town for us, and headed out early.

Thanks for your interest in our travels.

Links to other reports:      Page 1     Siena

                                           Page 2     Roma

                                           Page 3     Porto Recanati

                                           Page 4     Essay on Italian Television

                                           Page 5     Giro d'Italia

                                           Page 6     Assisi & Montefalco

                                           Page 7     Todi, Etruscan Pottery, Giro d'Italia

                                           Page 8     Orvieto, Missed the last Tram  down,                                                               

                                           Page 9      iChiari,  Castiglione de Lago, Caldo??                                                                

                                           Page10     Fiesole, Florence

                                           Page 11   The Perfect Bicycle Ride

                                           Page 12    Florence, Uffizi, Fiesole

                                           Page 13   CinqueTerre                                                

                                           Page  14  Riomaggiore, Monterossa, Vernazza, 

                                           Page  15  Porto Venere, Lord Byron, Le Grazie

           Link to Don's Art Work should work now. 

                                        Don's Art Work on France and Truckee

           Email to Don & Geralynn

           All pictures and text are copyright of Don & Geralynn Myrah Sr  2001.