ItalyPage07

Page 7 Todi, Etruscan Pottery, Giro d'Italia

MAY 25, 2001 FRIDAY

Well, it was time to say goodby to the Carloni family. Mrs. Carloni let us use her phone line, so we were able to download some of our trip reports, and read our email. We had a bit of trouble notifying our email list about the new reports, but Don was getting nervous about using the phone for so long, so we got off line, and finished packing up and headed out to continue our trip, aiming for Todi.

We had planned to find a laundromat in town and wash clothes and stop at the internet café to finish with our emails. But, no laundromat, just a dry cleaner, so we will try to wash clothes in Todi.

As usual, all of the weather reports said thunderstorms, but as soon as we got started the sun popped out and we had good weather for our ride. Our route took us across the valley, and along the edge of the hills, through the town of Dutra.

In Dutra Don came to a screeching halt because he saw some wonderful Etruscan pots, platters and urns in a shop window. We stopped at the shop but the door was locked, so we ogled the pottery through the window. We couldnt believe our eyes when we saw the prices of some of the pieces. We kept checking our calculations. These ancient relics were either very, very expensive or very, very reasonable. We were so excited we couldnt get our math straight. We rang the bell and a fellow came and opened up the shop. We drooled over every piece, and finally started asking questions. It turned out that these pots are not ancient relics, but you could fool us. Instead they are original artworks, hand thrown and painted by the artist,

using the same method the Etruscans used, and using designs and pictures from original works that can be found in museums. The artist was very nice, explaining his process to us and showing us pictures of how he paints the pottery with animal whiskers, and the two-step process of glazing he uses. So, we ended up buying two pieces and having them shipped home. Don was very happy thinking about his new artwork for the rest of the ride.

As we continued on our ride, we passed through many small towns. People were very excited about our bikes and trailers, and got a big kick out of Dons two hats. In one town a group of old fellows standing around the tabacchi gave us a big cheer, Brava! Dura! Bravo!, as we rode past.

We stopped for lunch in the small town of Statzione di Pappiano, and while we were there a little, ancient train came puttering alongone carand dropped a few people off and picked up a few.

Now we were on the final leg of our journey for the day. Up the hills we went, first to Fratta Todina, and then finally to Todi. The last 4 miles were up, up, up. Then we got to town, but it wasnt the old town, so I knew we would have to go up even more, through the old stone gate, down a narrow street, along the cobblestones, until we got to the very top of the hill where the centro and church are. I was hot and tired and getting grumpy. Then, when we got to the gate, it was a one-way road, going out of the city, so we started riding around the walls to find the in. Well, we rode up some more, and then started going down, and I was thinking bad thoughts about going down and having to ride back up again. Sure enough, we started going up more and more and we still werent inside the walls. I was really getting grumpy now, and I was stinky and sweaty too. Don went ahead to make it harder for me to yell at him about the hill, and I struggled on and on. Finally Don called me on the walkie-talkie to tell me he had made it to the center, and there was a 4 star hotel there and he was checking in. I arrived 5 minutes later, went right to our room and got in the shower. Ahhhhhhhh!

Our hotel room was actually quite modest compared to the other accommodations we have enjoyed. It was about 12x12 and was filled up with bed, armoire, desk and chair. But it did have free shampoo and shower caps, and breakfast was included, so I guess it was worth it. It cost us more for the one night than all three nights at Mrs. Carlonis.

After showering and cooling off, we took a stroll around the town, admiring more churches, piazzas, ancient Roman structures, and fountains. We had dinner at a little outdoor café. After dinner we looked around the town for a laundromat the waitress told us about, but couldnt find it.

MAY 26, 2001 SATURDAY

We got up and had our nice breakfast, and as we were checking out Don started chatting with another customer and learned that the Giro would be passing through town at noon. So, we decided to stick around Todi for another day, but we went down the hill and checked into another hotel where the price was half and the room twice as big. They were very nice about letting us have the room right away, even though it was about 11am, and as we were putting our duffel bags in the room Don saw the advertising caravan for the race and ran out the door with his camera.

View from our second Hotel room window.

I finished unpacking things and stowing our food supply in the frigobar and then took the two walkie talkies, some sunguard, and a bottle of water, and set out in search of Don. As usual, every policeman/woman in a 50 mile radius was there, directing and tooting their whistles. The person in charge was a woman officer, dressed in a skirted black wool uniform and 4 inch heels. I was wearing shorts and a sleeveless shirt and comfortable shoes, and I was sweating. I cant imagine how uncomfortable she was. Still, she officiously did her job, tooting her whistle and directing the traffic where they didnt want to go.

Don was down around the corner, and when I finally found him he wanted me to station myself at the top of the hill so I could alert him when the riders started coming. While I was waiting the policewoman was stopping traffic, sometimes diverting vehicles up the hill towards the old city, sometimes storing them in a long backup of cars full of hot, cranky people. Then she stopped a couple on a tandem bike. I could see that they were touring, because they had a trailer with duffel bags, and I guessed that they were American by their equipment and clothing.

The old cliché, What a small world, fits here. They were from Truckee/Mill Valley, and they were bike touring in Italy for a month. They were heading right to the cities we had just come from. I had a good time chatting with them, and gave them my email. I hope they get in touch so we can swap Italy stories, hints, and ideas for another trip.

While I was talking with them the riders came over the hill and I did my duty, alerting Don to their arrival. He got a couple of good shots of the peloton, and then he took a couple of pictures of the bike touring couple too.

We had a lovely view from our balcony. After handwashing some clothes (we gave up on a laundromat) we hung them out to dry in the sun, and then sat on our balcony and sipped a glass of wine and enjoyed the view. As the sun set, the green hills darkened and the old city lit up. There was a crescent moon shining in the deep blue sky, just over the peak of the church.