TIROL RADWANDERWEG After leaving the Schloss Linderhof we stopped at the little village of Graswang where we arranged a room at the tidy windowboxed home of Frau Weber.  At first I think she was a bit wary of us, appearing as we did from nowhere during a very quiet time of year.  But, after we behaved ourselves so well the first night she loosened up and was very happy to have us stay a second night. This little town is in a lovely valley in the Ammer Geb mountains.  We had a good night’s sleep in the quiet village, and awakened at 6:30am to the chiming of the church bells.  Don watched the farmer across the street come out of his house and go into the barn to milk his cows.  Later he pushed a large canister of milk up the street to the collection point.  Then he herded his cows—a small herd of 9 or 10—to the pasture for the day. After breakfast we headed out on our bikes to Ettal where we visited the church at the huge monastery.  From there we rode back out through the valley, up the mountain pass to the Austrian border.  We stopped at the gasthaus there for a Bavarian lunch and then decided to return to Graswang since it had started to rain.  We mostly wanted to check our hill-climbing stamina. The following day, Sunday, we had our breakfast and watched the menfolk return from church, dressed in their local style—olive green knickers, beige knee socks, fancy embroidered suspenders, dress jacket and peaked cap.  We only surmise that the women were left home, as the farm wife across the street, to muck out the stalls and spread fresh cut greenery out in the barn for the cows to sleep on.  Maybe they go to church earlier or later? We headed out early, about 9am, and went to Kempton, where we visited the Residenz, another elaborately decorated palace.  This palace was inhabited by “prince-abbots” who, our tour guide told us with tongue in cheek, were monks from midnight until noon, and carousing royalty from noon to midnight.  The palace was richly decorated with many frescoes depicting religious and secular themes.  Some of the massive furnishings were original, as were some of the detailed inlaid floors. We also went to the Marstall Museum, which houses a large collection of medieval artworks—more “Madonna and child” stuff, as well as displays of mountaineering gear, ski equipment and maps from the 1800s to the present.  It was actually very interesting.  There was also a relief map of the mountains, so we were able to plot out our route through the Alps from Augsburg to Innsbruck. We aimed the car for Augsberg and arrived home about 4pm to do laundry and catch up on world news, weather and family.  Tomorrow is a business and cleaning day, and then we depart on the bicycling leg of our trip.