SCHLOSS LINDERHOF
Rainy day Friday, August 29, so we took the car and drove south to the
Tyrolean Alps. We are starting to scout out our route from
Augsburg to Vienna.
We
first stopped at the beautiful little Schloss (castle) Linderhof
. This is where King Ludwig mainly hung out as most of his other
palaces were never finished before his death. The Schloss is
quite small, with just 4 rooms (plus little servant’s waiting rooms on
each corner) but it is still fabulous.
First of all, the Schloss is situated in a Disneyesque (is there such a
word???) setting. In front of the palace is a large reflecting
pond with a golden fountain of Venus and Cupid spewing enormous jets of
water periodically. On the other side of the pond is a huge
“temple” dedicated to Venus. This temple is surrounded by
beautiful, colorful gardens set in geometric patterns. The
gardens are wonderful to look down upon as you mount the tiered
staircases up to the rotunda which houses the Venus statue. At
each landing, before you start another tier of stairs, there are
elaborate carvings and statuary of chubby cherubs and lovely ladies in
various poses, and smaller fountains burbling happily.
In back of the Schloss, viewed from the king’s bedchamber, is an
enormous tiered water cascade. Everything is beautifully
landscaped with ferns and flowers.
Inside the palace we entered into a rotunda with a double staircase
of Cararra marble, passing huge cloisoneed Chinese urns. At
the top of the stairs we entered into one of the corner servant’s
waiting rooms, with elaborately decorated walls and ceiling. Next
was the obligatory throne room, which Ludwig seldom used, but had to
have. The golden rococo throne was situated on a small pedestal
and faced a huge mirror, perhaps so the king could admire
himself??
From
the throne room, through another servant’s waiting room, to the king’s
bedroom. Don and I have decided that King Ludwig must have been
the inventor of the king sized bed, because his bed in this palace is
the biggest bed we have ever seen. King L was 6’ 3”, so he did
need a big bed. His bedroom is the largest room in the palace,
and his bed is set up on a platform. From the bed he can see out
the big windows to Neptune’s fountain and the cascading, tiered
waterfall. The bed is separated from any visitors by a carved
railing similar to the ones at Versailles. The bed is decorated
in royal blue and surrounded by gold rococo. Of course there are
beautiful frescoes painted on the ceiling.
After passing through another servant room you come to the dining
room. This room is set up to feed one, only and the table is
rigged up on a pulley system so that it could be set and food placed on
the table down below, and then hoisted up to the king’s dining
room. The king apparently was quite shy and never had guests here
and spent much of his time in his fantasies.
Next is the fabulous Hall of Mirrors, another tribute to the “Sun
King”, Louis XIV. White and gold rococo wall
decorations, more beautiful paintings on the walls and ceiling.
But,
wait! That is not all. There is the Grotto. Now, this
is where the Disney people got a lot of their ideas, I am sure, because
this entire thing could be placed right in Disneyland as an
attraction. King Ludwig had this grotto created to his
specifications (what an imagination he had!) and the cave is dimly lit
and made out of artificial rocks, with a huge pond in the center.
He would have his servants row him across the pond in a boat designed
to look like a swan, and he would sit in his private box seat while
Wagner operas were performed for him. The grotto features include
artificial wave action, a waterfall that could be slowed to a trickle
or increased to a roar, and indirect colored lighting. This was
the first electrical lighting system in Bavaria and the dynamo engines
which powered the waves and waterfalls were radical new inventions.
Other outbuildings include a chapel, a Moorish cottage, the original
hunting lodge, and various kiosks.
Poor King Ludwig. He was 200 years too late for Louis XIV and 100
years too early for Walt Disney. They thought he was crazy, and
in his 46th year the powers that were had him declared insane.
That very day he escaped to Munich and he and his doctor were both
found drowned the next day. Suicide or murder??? No one
knows.
    
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