AUSTRIAN WINE COUNTRY

We had a comfortable night in Melk and the following morning we visited the imposing yellow and gold building on the hill overlooking the town.  This building is another Kloster, but it houses a vast library.  The holdings of the library include land records that go back to 700ad.  The Koster is very elaborate and decorated with many beautiful murals.

Leaving Melk we again crossed the river and found that we were traveling into more temperate areas, because the crops became vineyards and apricot orchards.  The terrain became a bit hilly, but this was a nice change from the level river route.  We had wonderful weather and enjoyed our ride up and down through the little villages and vineyards.  We found many more tourists here, from boats, autos and bicycles.  There are lots of people on the route now. 

After passing through Durnstein, which is a very popular wine area, we arrived in the bigger city of Krems.  I had planned to stop here to try to find some sunglasses and to buy a book that Don wanted, but we just zipped right through the city and out the other side without a chance to stop.  We decided to take the route on the left side of the river, rather than on the right.  For the first time the route turned into dirt and gravel and we were concerned that we had missed a marker.  We rode along on the dirt and gravel for a few miles and then we were back on the nice paved route again. 

We followed the route along for several miles until we got to the lock.  At last we were lucky and we got to see a barge go into the lock and then the water level rose and he was able to go out the other side.  We have passed so many locks over the last week and at last we were able to see one in action. 

After passing over the dam we stopped for the night and got our room arranged.  Our hostess, another intrepid little Austrian grandma, was quite interested in our bicycles.  She caught on to the folding and putting in the case right away and explained it to her English speaking college girl grandaughter., who confirmed grandma's vision with us.  Grandma was a very sharp cookie indeed.

The next morning, Tuesday, we realized we were a day ahead of schedule and our Vienna hostess was not expecting us until Wednesday.  Don decided to take some time to do some bicycle maintenance, since we had a nice big back yard to work in.  He changed out his tire, which was worn quite thin, and cleaned and lubed the chains again.  Grandpa was out there supervising, and whenever he could get a finger in he was right into the mechanics, helping Don with everything. 

After getting the bikes put back together we headed out, not to get anywhere but just to use up the day.  We decided it was time for some hills and we took off from the Danube route and went up into the hills.  We started out over fairly flat land and stopped for lunch in a nice little village.  We picked a quiet park bench on a back street.  What a surprise!  This was the school bus stop and bus after bus pulled into the drive and stopped and deposited their load of passengers.  It wasn’t quiet the whole ½ hour we were there!

We headed out from the town, and started up some nice switchbacks.  They were very well planned, long and gradual climbs.  We climbed up 1500 feet and it felt very good after all that flat.  We proceeded along the scenic route, and then made our turn heading for Klosterneuburg, which is supposed to be an interesting town.  Unfortunately we made a wrong turn.  This turn lead us up more hills and more hills and more hills.  Then we had a very nice, long downhill. 

But, by the time we got to Klosterneuburg Don was tired and grouchy.  We just wanted to get booked into a zimmer and take our shower and rest, but the town was all on the hill and Don stated that he refused to climb another hill.  He was on hill strike!  So, we went on into the town looking for a zimmer.  When we got to the banhof (train station) we still had not found a place to stay that didn’t require a climb up a hill.  So, we proceeded along the Danube route looking for signs.  No luck!  Then we went up to the main road and found one place that said “beilguzt” which means full.  By now he was really grouchy and getting mad at me (for no reason at all, I might add!!!!).  Don then stated that he was done trying to find someplace and it was now my responsibility.

So, I headed back down to the Danube route on the idea that we would see advertisements for zimmers there.  We didn’t see one, but finally did come upon a town map and plan that showed a gasthaus, so we went there. 

The room was fine and the dinner was lousy, but at least Don felt a little better.

The next day we got up and had our breakfast and then headed out along the river route into Vienna.  Along the route we saw numerous zimmer signs and advertisements.  We must have been blind the night before to not see them!  We arrived in Vienna by noon, and leisurely rolled along the route and over the bridge to the island where our home exchange is located.  We were not expected until 5pm.  But, even though we arrived at 1 pm, Reinhold, the son,  was there to greet us, show us to our room and around the house and make us comfortable.

The first thing I did was start a load of laundry.  Everything I had needed to be washed since we hadn’t been able to wash clothes since Innsbruck.  Then we went online to check our email.  After settling in we went out for a nice lunch on the waterfront and then took a stroll around the island.  This island, just minutes from downtown Vienna, is a great location.  We are in a quiet, slower-paced area, but still very convenient to everything.  On this island is located the United Nations complex, some big hotels and a big conference center, a large park with the zoo and many private beach clubs. 

We did some grocery shopping and came home for wine in the backyard and then we made some good old-fashioned American hamburgers.  Don says he is very tired of breaded meat.

Now we are just catching up on reports and news and resting.