FRENCH PYRENEES

May 17-21, 2007

The next morning we decided to forget trying to battle the wind, so we made arrangements to go back to the airport and rent a car.  Then, since we had some extra time, we decided to explore the French Pyrenees.

We got off the fast road and headed over the mountains on a twisty, winding “green” route.  We went up and up, each turn presenting us with yet, another stunning view.  At the top we stopped at an ancient stone dolmen and were awed at the amazing vistas everywhere we turned.

Driving down the backside of the mountain, we stopped for the night in Prades at the very nice chamber d’hote of Kate and Nick Wilcock.,  Villa Lafabregue, www.villafrench.com.  Our charming British hosts made us comfortable in the Palm room, with a nice queen bed and a lovely lanai overlooking the swimming pool and with a fabulous view of the dramatic, snowcapped Pic de Canigou.   In addition  to  pleasant accommodatons,  cordial host and hostess,  and  beautiful surroundings, the Wilcock's provided  free internet and Wifi.

The next day we continued our unplanned side trip through the French Pyrenees, stopping at the walled city of  Villefranche de Confluent, before making our way up the side of the mountain to Font-Romou Odelio, where we toured an amazing solar furnace. 

The Odellio solar furnace is a structure 8 stories high composed of hundreds of mirrors.  Out in the field, facing the huge mirror panel are smaller reflector panels.  Using the sun’s rays and reflecting them back to the mother panel can create extreme heat.  This facility has been used to test  materials for the insulation of space ships, high tolerance metals and numerous other scientific applications.  Our tour was really interesting.  After visiting the solar furnace we spent the night in the nearby ski resort town of Font-Romou.

The next day we continued exploring the area, checking out the little tourist train, another solar tower, and local villages, including a little patch of Spain that is plopped right inside French borders.  Our picnic lunch was spent watching the hang gliders soar off the nearby cliffs.  We checked into a town hotel for the night and I wasn’t very happy with the choice until we went down for dinner, where we were served beautiful meals in the auberge.  The next morning we took a walk around the village and I saw a field of beautiful aromatic lilac.  It made me think of my sister, Susan, who hopes for just such a wall of lilacs at her new house in Salem.

For our next day Don wanted to go to Andorra, so we drove into this little country on the one road.  Andorra is basically a narrow canyon with a couple of cities clinging to the cliffsides.  We saw dozens of motorcycle shops, selling leathers, helmets and all kinds of gear.  We assume that this is a good route for motorcyclists, and because of the tax-free status of Andorra, there are good deals.  We got a good deal on gasoline here.  But, there is not much in the way of scenery or places of interest to us. 

After spending the morning on the very busy highway, Don wanted to get out into the country, so we picked a nice little scenic route and got out of the traffic.  As we ambled along the country road enjoying the green hills we started looking for signs for Chambres.  Don picked an obscure little village and started following the sign for the local chambre.  I was skeptical.  But, Don’s choice turned out to be quite delightful.

At Les Sapins we met Ronald, his sister, Ilse and their friend Heinrich.  They are from Brussels and are new to the tourist business.  Ronald bought the operation and then he called his sister and told her to come to France to help him, and then eventually Heinrich came in as a partner.  They run a farm, stable, restaurant and chambre/gite.  Ronald is the chef for the little restaurant and he makes a lovely presentation.  We enjoyed the people, the fabulous view and the food.  www.domainelessapins.com, Camurac, France.

After leaving Les Sapins we took Ronald’s suggestion and went over to Mont Segur.  This is another Cathar castle that sits high upon a rocky cliff.  This was the capital of Cathar country and it has a tragic history.  The fortress walls are quite well preserved.  The climb up to the fortress is rigorous and extremely steep.  In fact, the ticket booth is about halfway up the mountain.  Don speculates that this way people who can’t make the climb are weeded out before they pay and therefore don’t ask for a refund.

Mont Segur was one of the last strongholds of Catharism.    During 1243 6000 crusaders laid siege to Mont Segur, inhabited by 600 people.  The citizens lasted 10 months before surrendering.  The terms of surrender offered the people their freedom if they would renounce Catharism.  250 people chose to be burned to death rather than renounce their beliefs.

That night we stayed at the very nice chambre de Morenci, owned by Martine and Michel Lavoine.  Our lodging, with a fabulous view of Mont Segur, was spotless, comfortable and spacious.  Michel and Martine have done a beautiful job of renovating and restoring an ancient, decrepit farm house.  Michel makes wooden children’s toys and his workshop is also there at the house.  His skill as a fine woodworker is evident in every detail of the renovation of the house.  He included many old features of the ancient farmhouse, while creating a modern, clean and comfortable space.  We would love to return here for a week or two.  morenci@wanadoo.fr