CHATEAU COUNTRY

May 24-26, 2005

After saying goodbye to M. Fichelle we took more country roads through farm country and forests and arrived at the Chateau of Chambord at around 1pm.  We had a nice chat with a group of Dutch women who were cycling through the Loire Valley for a week. 

Then we went to tour the Chateau.  We rented the audio guides and found them very informative, perhaps even a bit too much information.  The tour took us far longer than we had planned.

The Chateau of Chambord was built by Francois I as a hunting lodge.  It is built in a bit different style, based on 9 equal squares. Many of the rooms are furnished in period furniture and there are many paintings by old masters on the walls. The audio guide was extensive and it took us almost 2 hours to complete the tour. We ended up skipping lunch completely and heading directly for our next b&b, l’Achat in Cormeray.

Even though we had directions we ended up stopping at the Mairie (town hall) for directions. Also, we were late, so I had the ladies at the Mayor’s office call ahead to reassure our hostess we were on the way. We arrived to a very warm welcome, a nice, clean room and a very gracious hostess. After a shower we sat on the terrace, sipping our wine and enjoying the pleasant evening and lovely garden. Our hostess, Dominique LeHoux, showed us her homemade bread, which was rising in the kitchen, and told us all about the other products she makes at her farm.

We went into the town for dinner.  Don had a white fish in a buttery tasting red sauce and I had salmon in a delicious sauce.  My salmon arrived in a huge tin foil packet.  The foil was full of hot air and had blown up like a balloon.  I unwrapped and ate, but I guess I was supposed to puncture it and let the steam escape and eat it through the hole. We ordered the 4 course meal which included an appetizer, the main course, cheese and dessert, all for 16 euros.  My dessert was a mango crumble and Don had something chocolate.  I don’t think you could touch this meal for under $50 each in San Jose.  It was a very pleasant meal.   (La Vieille  Tour  Restaurant,

Cellettes, France)

The following morning we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast of homemade yogurt, jams and jellies, bread, boiled eggs, brownies, and fruit.  Mme. LeHoux, Chambres d'Hotes L'Achet, Carmeray, Fr, 41120. Tel 02 54 44 20 94.  graciously telephoned ahead an made a reservation for us at our next destination and then we packed up and headed down the road once again.

The scenery continued to be beautiful green trees, rivers, vineyards and fields.  We enjoyed riding through the Loire countryside on tiny, seldom traveled lanes. We arrived in Chaumont at about 11am and stopped at the Tourist Information Center where we got an updated B&B guide.  They knew nothing about bike routes, though.  I set out to find the bank and the supermarket because we were out of money and low on food.  After going the wrong way for a bit, I turned around and went across the bridge to find the bank.  The supermarket was closed; they close from noon to 2:30, but I was able to get money.

From the town we pushed our heavy bike loads up a very steep hill to get into the Chaumont Chateau grounds. Chaumont is another very pretty chateau. It belonged to Catherine de Medici and after her husband, King Henry, was killed playing war games with some of his men, Catherine made Henry’s mistress, Diane de Poitiers trade her very lovely Chateau Chenonceaux. Again, the chateau was decorated with period furniture and many old paintings by famous artists.

By now it was hot and I was glad we were able to leave the grounds without going back down the steep hill. We made our way to Souvigny de Tourraine and the wonderful home of Helene and Jean-Rene Brukhovetsky, La Maladrie. Over several years they have remodeled and rebuilt their house and barn into a wonderful B&B with comfortable, large rooms, big beds and delightful décor. Our room was spacious, had a modern bathroom, cheerful colors and cute decorations. Helene and Jean-Rene were cordial, accommodating and entertaining hosts. As we sat in the gardens enjoying a welcoming beverage we decided to stay over another day and made arrangements with our hosts.

For dinner we strolled a few kilometers to the recommended restaurant, where we had a wonderful meal al fresco. When we mentioned that our hosts had recommended them, the hostess immediately brought us a complementary glass of wine and some snacks for an aperitif. We had ordered a bottle of wine, and that came shortly too. Another appetizer arrived, then our salmon entrees, cheese and dessert. We had delicious French coffee to finish. By then it was after 10pm and the hostess came to the table and asked if we would like a ride home. The restaurant owner very graciously drove us home so we didn’t have to walk in the pitch black.

Les Closeaux
41400
Vallieres
Les Grandes
clunais@aol.com
02 47 573 273

Dutch women who were cycling through the Loire Valley for a week.   Miek  Littley, Dutch tour leader and gite owner in Pouille, France.  dmlittley@aol.com  31204213509