DEJEUNER CHEZ GRANIER

May 5, 2005

 

Dave arranged for us to be invited to the home of some friends, Laurence and Thierry, so on Thursday we had a quiet morning around the apartment and at around 10 we set out for the village of La Celle les Bordes for a day in the country.

 

At home Don has his new GPS, Bossy Betty, "Navman iCN 510" who talks to us and is so patient when we don’t follow her directions and get lost.  Here in France our host has Betty’s cousin, Babette, who shows every bit as much restraint as our own Betty does.  As we navigated our car onto the A6 highway we activated Babette to guide us through the complexities of the freeway interchanges we needed to manage in order to head southwest toward La Celle. 

 

The highway was very crowded with holiday travelers, all heading south with their campers and RVs, cars packed to the gills with kids, friends, grandma and grandpa. This is a 4-day weekend for the holiday of Accension and it is traditional for the city folk to go to the country for a holiday with family.

 

We had quite a bit of bumper to bumper as we traveled along the road, and we became concerned that we would be late.  But, once we got through the big interchange and on to the A10 traffic freed up and we sailed along quite nicely.

 

The countryside is very green and lush this year as France has had a very good rain year, just as we have had in California.  So, we enjoyed to views of pretty oaks and sycamores in the green pastures as we left the A10 and traveled along the winding country roads, through the villages of St. Arnault and Bullion and on to La Celle. 

 

Our host, Thierry, peeked out the window as we entered the town, and came hustling out to greet us while we parked the car.  After we jacked our right wheels up onto the sidewalk, as is the custom in France, Dave introduced us to Thierry who lead us through a gate in a high stone wall and into a lovely enclosed garden, where we met his wife, Laurence.  Dave met Laurence when she came to work on a project at Los Alamos and they have stayed in touch as their projects and travels continue.  Thierry also works at the French Laboratories where Laurence works and where Dave sometimes collaborates on projects.

 

Cheryl and I strolled around the garden, identifying cherry and pear trees, and admiring the flower selection.  Someone here has a green thumb.  We were welcomed into the quaint and charming home of Thierry and Laurence where we sat in the living room and enjoyed champagne and appetizers as we chatted and got to know each other. 

 

Soon we were invited to the table and Laurence presented the first course, a lovely salad of field greens with wild salmon.  A nice white wine accompanied the dish.  Next Laurence presented the entrée, which included duck in delicious sauce, riced leeks and broiled tomatoes, complemented by a gentle red wine.  The presentation of both courses left us in awe, as Laurence seemed to just whip the dishes out of the kitchen with ease and panache.  The cheese course was presented next, and included three flavorful cheeses arranged attractively on a cutting board.  For dessert we had a beautiful Tarte au Fraises, strawberry tart followed by that delicious French coffee.  Yum!  We were stuffed and sat there smiling from ear to ear.  The conversation was enjoyable and I was wondering if I could even rise I was so full.

 

We decided it was time to take a walk so we took a short stroll around the town as we watched a bike race whiz past.  There was a respectable pack of about 30-40 riders and a few stragglers, and it must have been a criterion because we saw them pass by several times.

 

Thierry proposed that we take an excursion to L’Abbaye des Vaulx de Cernay.  The day turned out to be rather nice and the sun was shining, so we followed the Graniers and Dave in one car and Cheryl, Don and I in the other, along the country road to Vallee de Chevreuse.

 

The abbey was started in 1148 and has been preserved in good condition.  There are extensive grounds, with rolling green lawns and a lake, alongside the chapel, the monastery, and the gardens.  A few small outbuildings still survive as well—the fountain for baptisms, the pigeon cote, and the well.

 

The abbey enjoyed much prosperity, especially during the middle of the 13th century, when if enjoyed many benefits of the king under the rule of Marguerite de Provence.  With her support the cloisters and main buildings were refurbished and the farm flourished for 300 years.

 

By the 15th century the abbey had been allowed to deteriorate and there was political trouble, which prevented maintenance work to be done.  The abbey continued in bad repair for many years and was abandoned during the French Revolution.  In the 19th century Baron Nathaniel de Rotschild purchased the domain and restored the buildings and grounds.  Today there is a beautiful hotel, and one may stay in the Suite de la Baronne de Rothschild for a mere 605Euros a night.  In addition a sumptuous brunch is served on Sundays and holidays and one may dine al fresco alongside the lake.

 

It was a lovely day, spent with lovely people.  We thanked our hosts and got in the car for our return to our apartment.